Jean Contest - J. Stern 0037 AKA Operation: Owl Eyes

I have entered another contest despite the fact that life tries to throw curve balls. This one is the Jean Contest. After making a few pairs of pants out of the box, I wanted to make a pair that are ‘me’. I mean, after all, is not that the reason why we sew? I didn’t want another “I look just the other one” pair of jeans.

This is my second time making the J. Stern jeans. Here’s the first go at it.

The description taken from J. Stern’s website: Fitted jeans featuring classic 5-pocket styling
w/ optional back flap pockets, easy front fly zipper, boot leg hem and topstitching. Finished inseam 34”. Also, the waistline can be adjusted to sit at your natural waist. The boot cut leg can also be modified to the flare of your liking.

The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 16. I used the size 8 line. This corresponds to a 31 1/2 low waist and 38 1/2 full hip.

My final product does not look like the pattern photos because I made some very custom modifications to fit the bill of what I saw in my head. Had I made them right out of the box, they would have. Even though I have made them only once they are a TNT because they fit so well.

I didn’t use the instructions because I have made jeans before. I did however want to see if I could understand J. Stern’s fly and zip instructions again. I thought I would have understood them this time. Not so. I am pretty sure it’s my brain working on s-l-o-w. Other than that, the instructions are great.

What I like most is everything. The shaping, pieces, instructions, and the coin pocket. I also like how the pockets go all the way to the zipper. I learned that this is called ‘tummy control’ because the pockets are made from a woven and does not allow for any stretching of the pooch area. What I disliked is that the back rise is short for those of use with a little meat on the backside. I wrote on the pack that I needed to lengthen that area from the previous version but I forgot to do that. But that does not justify me to not like the pattern. I love it.

I used the same fabric from the last pair. I must like it because I ordered more from Fabric.com soon after I made the last pair. It is a black stretch denim that looks a little pre-faded. For the pocket bags I used some trash remnants from another project. It is a cotton shirting. I also used some embossed vinyl for the ‘leather’ parts.

There were tons of alterations and design changes. Where do I start?

1. I modified the front pockets to dip lower. That meant I had to change all three pieces. I made the pocket bag a tad bigger, too. Not that I use my pockets much but when I do, (like walking in the park) I want to be able to fit my license, cell phone, and a set of keys in there.

                                               

2. As I did on the last pair, I finished the pocket bags with bias binding. This gives such a neat finish. It’s not bulky either.

 

3. I changed the back pocket because I did not want a normal shape. I wanted something else.

4. I changed the flap. I made the point off-centered. To me, it’s to give contour detail to the rearview.

5. I did try and put in the zipper per instructions but once again I had bad results. In fact, I don’t know what kind of results I got this time. So, not wanting to deal with the pain and to get over that hill I decided to use the Jalie 2908 method. But by now I had already cut off the extra piece on the right side fly that’s instructed. I had to redraft it snd give it seam allowances and sew it right back on. I put the zipper tape to the line and not the zipper teeth. This hid the zipper well under the flap. Although it works, there is something that is just not quite right.

6. I used the waistband from Simplicity 9825. I love how it sits on my body and there is no problem with it gapping back there.

I didn’t want the normal thin band that are found on regular jeans. I wanted a wide band. This remedied the low back rise, too. 

At first I was going to make the waistband in the same vinyl embossed ‘leather’ but that meant a few big fat seams because it is kind of thick. I should have used it to make a covered headboard instead. I would have went ahead and tried it but I cut the pieces without seam allowances by mistake and they were too small. I took them apart and tried to sew them lapped, but they were still too short.

                                  

So, I ultimately decided not waste anymore pleather and cut the band in the denim and lined it with a blue cotton with butterfly designs I had originally supposed to use for my daughter’s sundress.

7. Last, I tapered the wide flare to more of a straight look. Well, they are not totally straight. At the hem, there was a total of 2 inches on each side taken off. So, front and back leg both sides is a total of 8 inches. I was going for the skinny at first but changed my mind right before I’d cut them. This was the easiest change in the whole process.

Oh, 8. I forgot about this one. I had sewn the center seam off to the right about (eyeballed)halfway of 5/8. When I topstitched, I topstitched to the left. I did this so that my topstitching could be on the center and not off to whatever side my topstitching ended on.

                                      

I have seen (in fact, I own a pair) jeans off-centered like this and it irks me. And 8a. I put my back pockets on last because I wanted to make sure they were centered and properly placed. Not too far up, down, close, apart. Angled correctly… Then I sewed the inseam. That made it easier to sew the back pockets.

                                                

and 9. I cut off 2 1/2 inches from the hem and hemmed them 1 inch. It was a double turn, 1/2 each.  

Of course, I would sew it again and of course, I recommend! Why wouldn’t I when I get such great results?

I had to make a quick dash and get a right now photo:  

 

Here are more photos that I could not figure out to place them in the blog.

Almost forgot to change the shape.

Glue became a friend because the pockets kept moving.

Do I want the pocket flaps this way….

Or this way?

This?

This?

With or with out a tab?

I guess it’s without the tab.

With or without the yoke and wide band?

Placement here?

Or here? Many decisions.

Trimming to seam allowance.

Ready for the flaps.

I was supposed to wear this top with my jeans but that did not happen.

This is how I wore my new jeans.

      

The top is McCall’s 56651 Last seen here.

       

Me and my husband, Chad. I don’t like this photo. Let’s take another one…

Ok, it’s better but not the best. I think it’s the sun. (Boy, does my head stand out! LOL)

No gaposis. And the buttons aren’t functional. I couldn’t get the buttonhole to work so I put a snap just under the tip to keep the flaps down.

       

Operation: Owl Eyes was adopted because my youngest son said my back pockets look like owl eyes.

Conclusion Great, great, great!!!

Be encouraged and keep sewing, Scheryka

Think Pink in 2011

A contribute to all the Women who have had the unfortunate battle of facing breast cancer. Many women of all races have been diagnosed with the terrible, ugly, and devastating, trying-to-bring-us-females-down devil.

We should be educated on this ugly wanna-be tyrannical potential destroyer of life. According to the American Cancer Society, breast cancer is a malignant tumor that starts in the cells of the breast. A malignant tumor is a group of cancer cells that can grow into (invade) surrounding tissues or spread (metastasize) to distant areas of the body. The disease occurs almost entirely in women, but men can get it, too.

So, for a special contribute to our strong women who have fought this battle and either beat it or lost the fight, I decided to enter the Think Pink contest over at Pattern Review. This link takes you to the discussion for Think Pink. This link takes you to the photo gallery of all the entries. You won’t see me being prolific at all in the discussion because I wanted to finish my entry before I made a vow to enter. However, I followed the discussion by the other participants and lurkers and enjoyed the conversation.

I decided to make two patterns that have been collecting dust in the stash. They are Simplicity 2364 and Vogue 8697. I needed something quick and easy because of time constraints.

 

While I settled on the decision to make this very pretty and very figure flattering envelope style top, I thought this is such a great top that would help wash away any negative self-identity that a breast cancer patient may have. This type of top looks good with 1, 2, or no breast! Believe me, it is just that sexy.

There are a few words that are used to describe breast cancer that we should become familiar with.

1. Carcinoma - This is a term used to describe a cancer that begins in the lining layer (epithelial cells) of organs like the breast. Nearly all breast cancers are carcinomas (either ductal carcinomas or lobular carcinomas).

2. Adenocarcinoma - An adenocarcinoma is a type of carcinoma that starts in glandular tissue (tissue that makes and secretes a substance). The ducts and lobules of the breast are glandular tissue (they make breast milk), so cancers starting in these areas are often called adenocarcinomas.

3. Carcinoma in situ - This term is used for an early stage of cancer, when it is confined to the layer of cells where it began. In breast cancer, in situ means that the cancer cells remain confined to ducts (ductal carcinoma in situ). The cells have not grown into (invaded) deeper tissues in the breast or spread to other organs in the body. Carcinoma in situ of the breast is sometimes referred to as non-invasive or pre-invasive breast cancer because it may develop into an invasive breast cancer if left untreated.

4. Invasive (infiltrating) carcinoma - An invasive cancer is one that has already grown beyond the layer of cells where it started (as opposed to carcinoma in situ). Most breast cancers are invasive carcinomas — either invasive ductal carcinoma or invasive lobular carcinoma.

5. Sarcoma - Sarcomas are cancers that start in connective tissues such as muscle tissue, fat tissue, or blood vessels. Sarcomas of the breast are rare.

Here is the review for the top: Simplicity 2364 

                         

Pattern description: Misses’ Knit Tops. I would add: with two neck lines 1. Envelope  and 2. One-shouldered. Four sleeve variations: 1. sleeveless, 2. cap, 3. three-quarter, and 4. flutter. I made view A.

Sizing: 6 through 14 and 14 through 22. I cut the 14. I think I lost more weight than I initially thought because this was way too big.

Did it look like the photo or drawing on the envelope when you were done with it? Why, yes. I do believe so in a strange kind of way. Since I had a fit issue across the chest and didn’t quite know how to fix it. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were pretty simple. Nothing to grip or complain about.

What did I particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Well, I liked it because of the necklines. A woman always looks very nice and sexy in envelope style tops. To me this is hands down. For the other versions I did not make, I like the flutter sleeve and the one shoulder looks. My dislikes didn’t come until after I made blind adjustments and the top was done. I think this pattern either runs a bit on the huge side or my fabric had terrible stretch return – and it has good return but maybe not enough for this style.

Fabric used: I used a very pretty rib knit Pink in one light, Coral in another, and peach in, yet, another light. I bought it over a year ago from Hancock Fabrics when I visited my sister in NC. It was $2.95 a yard. It was supposed to have been a tank dress but that never happened.

Pattern alterations or any design changes: Hmmm, After I put the top’s front, back, and arm pieces together and tried it on, it fit like it was two sizes too big. I went in and sewn almost two inches on both sides. It was still big. I also took in another 1/2 in on each side from the under arm to the hem starting a zero and ending back at zero. I done a 1/2 hem also. For the part that makes the ‘cape’ of the top, I did not do a center seam. Instead, I just overlapped what would have been the center seam allowance and cut on the fold.

Would I sew it again? Would I recommend it? Well, let me say this. I made Vogue's top that is identical to this one twice. One for two of my sisters. Well, I made one for myself and it was claimed before I could wear it and I coached the other. (I didn’t get a chance to take any photos of those two.) I will continue to make the Vogue top for this style. I MIGHT try it again to see if it was me, the fabric used, or the pattern. I can not say that I recommend it because I am not fully content with it. Others who have made this same pattern may have other views. You can check them out right here and make an informed decision for yourself.

The normal breast

To understand breast cancer, it helps to have some basic knowledge about the normal structure of the breasts, shown in the diagram.

The female breast is made up mainly of lobules (milk-producing glands), ducts (tiny tubes that carry the milk from the lobules to the nipple), and stroma (fatty tissue and connective tissue surrounding the ducts and lobules, blood vessels, and lymphatic vessels). Most breast cancers begin in the cells that line the ducts (ductal cancers). Some begin in the cells that line the lobules (lobular cancers), while a small number start in other tissues.

The skirt was chosen because, for one, it has been in the stash since it came out and I wanted to do a new pattern, that was a skirt, and seemed to be pretty easy. You can’t go wrong with a high-waist pencil skirt.

Here is that review: Vogue 8697

                        

Pattern description: This is one of Vogue’s Options patterns for Misses’ and Misses’ Petite Skirt: Semi-fitted, tapered, lined skirts with shaped waistband, princess seams, back slit, topstitched trim and back zipper. I would say, what a sexy and very attractive skirt that would look great in any material!

Sizes: 4 through 18 and I cut the 12.

Did it look like the photo or depicted drawing on the envelope? Yes, indeed. Although I am not slim like the model nor as tall, I believe it looks pretty darn close to it.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Oh boy, yes! Just make sure you have your waistband pieces numbered and put together correctly. The photos are also helpful.

What did I like or dislike about the pattern? I love the shape and the kind of piecing to put it together. It makes an interesting waistband. I have no dislikes.

Fabric used: I used another great find from Hancock Fabrics on the same visit to NC for $3.95 a yard. So, it was a stash too.

Pattern alterations or design changes: First, I did not line the skirt. Second, I did not top-stitch any seam. Third, I added a small braided trim that was bought for another project. I put those in the horizontal side seam in the front and back. Now these seams I did top-stitch. At first, I was not going to add the lined waistband because I had issues with something just not lining up. However, I trimmed the extra fabric, made the facing piece as a whole by tracing the fashion side, and added the allowance. Last, I added a black bias to the facing bottom for a little contrast that only I would know about.

     

Would I sew it again? Do I recommend? Oh, yes, I want to definitely sew this number again. I see this in denim, corduroy, and suede…. Yes, I recommend this pattern to the highest power. And if this skirt has potential to make me look like this, I am even more in tuned to making it! Lol

Types of breast cancers: There are several types of breast cancer, but some of them are quite rare. In some cases a single breast tumor can be a combination of these types or be a mixture of invasive and in situ cancer.

Ductal carcinoma in situ - Ductal carcinoma in situ (DCIS; also known as intraductal carcinoma) is the most common type of non-invasive breast cancer. DCIS means that the cancer cells are inside the ducts but have not spread through the walls of the ducts into the surrounding breast tissue. About 1 in 5 new breast cancer cases will be DCIS. Nearly all women diagnosed at this early stage of breast cancer can be cured. A mammogram is often the best way to find DCIS early.

Lobular carcinoma in situ - This is not a true cancer, and is discussed in the section “What are the risk factors for breast cancer?

Invasive (or infiltrating) ductal carcinoma - This is the most common type of breast cancer. Invasive (or infiltrating) ductal carcinoma (IDC) starts in a milk passage (duct) of the breast, breaks through the wall of the duct, and grows into the fatty tissue of the breast. At this point, it may be able to spread (metastasize) to other parts of the body through the lymphatic system and bloodstream. About 8 of 10 invasive breast cancers are infiltrating ductal carcinomas.

Invasive (or infiltrating) lobular carcinoma - Invasive lobular carcinoma (ILC) starts in the milk-producing glands (lobules). Like IDC, it can spread (metastasize) to other parts of the body. About 1 in 10 invasive breast cancers is an ILC. Invasive lobular carcinoma may be harder to detect by a mammogram than invasive ductal carcinoma.

                   

                      

While I was trying to see how nice was to look in my new ensemble, my Sister asked me what shoes I was going to wear with it. 0_o. Ummm, good question. So I ran to the closet to see what I had on hand and these are what I sent her:

and

Don’t mind the black pair in the background. They have been disabled. I broke the heel while walking in Wal-Mart.

My shoes are my new Chinese Laundry Whistle pump.

All previous information taken from: http://www.cancer.org/Cancer/BreastCancer/DetailedGuide/breast-cancer-what-is-breast-cancer

One more note on breast cancer. I want to put it out there that we can perform our own breast self-exam. There are five steps to doing this. When I started about two years ago, I noticed that performing the self exam in the shower worked best. 

Step 1: Begin by looking at your breasts in the mirror with your shoulders straight and your arms on your hips.

Here's what you should look for:

• Breasts that are their usual size, shape, and color
• Breasts that are evenly shaped without visible distortion or swelling

If you see any of the following changes, bring them to your doctor's attention:

• Dimpling, puckering, or bulging of the skin
• A nipple that has changed position or an inverted nipple (pushed inward instead of sticking out)
• Redness, soreness, rash, or swelling

Step 2: Now, raise your arms and look for the same changes.

Step 3: While you're at the mirror, look for any signs of fluid coming out of one or both nipples (this could be a watery, milky, or yellow fluid or blood).

Step 4: Next, feel your breasts while lying down, using your right hand to feel your left breast and then your left hand to feel your right breast. Use a firm, smooth touch with the first few finger pads of your hand, keeping the fingers flat and together. Use a circular motion, about the size of a quarter.

Cover the entire breast from top to bottom, side to side — from your collarbone to the top of your abdomen, and from your armpit to your cleavage.

Follow a pattern to be sure that you cover the whole breast. You can begin at the nipple, moving in larger and larger circles until you reach the outer edge of the breast. You can also move your fingers up and down vertically, in rows, as if you were mowing a lawn. This up-and-down approach seems to work best for most women. Be sure to feel all the tissue from the front to the back of your breasts: for the skin and tissue just beneath, use light pressure; use medium pressure for tissue in the middle of your breasts; use firm pressure for the deep tissue in the back. When you've reached the deep tissue, you should be able to feel down to your ribcage.

Step 5: Finally, feel your breasts while you are standing or sitting. Many women find that the easiest way to feel their breasts is when their skin is wet and slippery, so they like to do this step in the shower. Cover your entire breast, using the same hand movements described in Step 4.

I hope you enjoyed this special review contributed to ALL breast cancer patients. Be blessed and stay informed. Education is the key.

Previous information taken from Breast Cancer.Org @ http://www.breastcancer.org/symptoms/testing/types/self_exam/bse_steps.jsp

Until later Schey.